The Grand Seiko SBGH269, ("Japanese Autumn")

In my previous post, a chance visit to the watch store to purchase a watch, the cryptic SBxxxxx, lead me down the hole in to purchasing the SBGA413, the "Cherry Blossom". But the whole article digressed from the primary purchase the trip was made for. Well this article is here to fill that unfulfilled void.

The first time I saw this watch was on a YouTube video by Adrian from @barkandjack when he visited a local dealer in London that carried the watch. The watch is question is the SBGH269, that I have dubbed the "Japanese autumn" sold in a limited edition of 900 pieces. This watch is expected to be officially launched in November but was definitely available on shelves as early as the second week on October 2019. The video by Adrian was definitely a key factor in convincing me to jump at this watch. His introduction was able to catch through camera the nature and certain depth of the dial that is not necessarily captured even through Grand Seiko's official press photos. Given the description of the dial and knowing what Grand Seiko has historically been capable of in terms of dial design i decided to contact a local AD, see if the had the watch and paid a deposit to hold it for me. Now, I was very skeptical w.r.t what I should expect with this watch. There were a few things I was not very thrilled about as far as the specifications go. While I know that that GS and their stainless steel watches are fantastic especially with their Zaratsu (mirror blade) polishing, based on early images I thought this watch would be better on a titanium case. Further more I would have really liked to see a spring drive movement in the watch. These aspects regarding the watch put me in a cautiously optimistic state where-in I also started to entertain options such as the SBGA413 "Cherry Blossom" model from my earlier review. Anyway I digress...lets continue.

The Case or the SBGH269 showing the stunning Zaratsu
polish nicely framing the masterpiece of a dial.

Over 4 days later on a Saturday and after a rather pleasant 2 hour drive to the AD I had a chance to look at the watch. Since I had put down my deposit earlier, the watch had been put aside in a safe and was not on display like several other pieces. As they brought out the piece and opened the box, I could get the gleaming shine of the polished stainless steel surfaces of the case. In the moderately lit room I was underwhelmed with the dial. I could not see much of a texture, gradation in color or any of the unique finishes touted in the video or picture. I was deflated. The dealer gave me the watch and I wore it on my wrist to see how it felt. Chunky with some heft, it had a commanding presence on my wrist. The color of the stainless steel and the Zaratsu polishing was obviously beautiful. This newly redesigned case truly make the polishing shine. The dial though had a dull brown tone to it......I went and stood in from of the mirror to see how it looked on my wrist...meh.....this was turning out to be a futile trip. A deposit, 4 days of waiting and there I was standing with this watch on my wrist, unimpressed and sad. I walked by to the window in the shop to look out, maybe there was a coffee shop where I could get a good cup of coffee to appease the sadness. I then turned my wrist and looked down at the dial one more time but this time I was in complete surprise. I was no more staring down at a dull brown dial. Instead the dull brown dial blasted into colors of a variety of shades of bright reds, oranges and a tinge of yellow. A pattern resembling lacquered wooden floorboards pops out in a gorgeous fashion as if appearing out of nowhere. The feeling of sadness and remorse were immediately replaced by a feeling of satisfaction and pride. I was not wrong in making this choice. 

The SBGH269 dial revealing its vibrant colors in varying shades when the light hits the lacquered dial.

When it comes to a the portfolio of Grand Seiko, there are dials and then there are DIALS. Grand Seiko's portfolio of dials are not all masterpieces. There are a few black, white, cream and blue dials that are gorgeous with sunburst patterns or brushed finishes but in today's watch market a good dial is more of the norm rather than the exception. Sunburst dials, giouche dials, are rather common place so I am not adding them into the mix of  what might be deemed extraordinary. However there are other dials, the "Snowflake", "Peacock", "Blizzard", "Kira zuri" etc. that defy the classic styles, that are unlike what anyone else produces and that draw their inspiration from Japanese traditions, seasons and even pop culture. These are created by gifted artisans over hours. This is a dial that falls under the category. 

After wearing this watch for a little bit things started to settle in. Remember those earlier worries about the stainless steel case and the movement? ALL GONE. This watch needs the stainless steel case, and the high beat movement. The heft of the case, the brilliance of the Zaratsu, the high beat ticking movement they all sing together. The depth of the dial, the gravitas of the colors require the weight that goes with it. This is overall a very well put together concept of a watch, beautifully done and is sure to be a great classic in the line up of Grand Seiko.